In Mountain Province, a solemn path of smoke and fire honors the dead

SAGADA, Philippines – Traced back to the arrival of the Anglican mission in the early 1900s, this unique tradition has deeply influenced local culture and beliefs in the Mountain Province.

Panag-apoy, a solemn practice observed by Sagada locals every November 1, All Saints’ Day, honors the dead through smoke and fire. It is also known as “Pagdedenet,” a Kankanaey term meaning “to light the fire.”

The lighting of fire on graves holds meaning for both tribal and Anglican beliefs, serving as an act of remembrance meant to warm and guide the spirits of departed loved ones.

Panag-apoy starts with a Holy Mass to remember the departed members of the community. In some towns across the province, names of the deceased locals are read aloud during the service. 

The local priest then blesses the graves, including candles and flowers at the cemetery, signaling locals to light their saeng or saleng — small bundles of fatwood placed on top of graves. 

As the fire burns, the cemetery glows orange as smoke fills the sky. 

Locals and officials stress that Panag-apoy is not a festival, despite the influx of tourists in recent years due to social media posts. 

While residents appreciate visitors, the swelling crowds, they say, have disrupted the solemnity and sacredness of the tradition.

This year, the local government of Sagada limited visitor access to preserve the solemnity of the occasion. Tourists may only observe the practice from 7 pm to 9 pm, and drone cameras are not allowed. 

The ritual unfolds in silence as the youth watch their elders light the saeng, passing the sacred tradition to the next generation. 

– Rappler.com